46 centuries and counting...

This is the view that the great pyrimids and sphinx of Giza have had for the past 46 centuries, standing on the plateau boundary between the habitable bit of the Nile valley that now makes up the mega-city of Cairo (22 million+) and a mega-empty span of inhospitable desert. 250 to 300 generations have come and gone since the pyramids were built. It's hard not to be impressed.





This last pyramid, the step pyramid at Saqqara, was the first one to be built - about 100 years before the great pyramids - making it the oldest "building" in the world (or at least the "oldest free standing stone structure", since the definition of building can vary).



It was really good to see it now because a team of French archaelogists is completely re-building the original outside casing. Yes, they'll use some of the original stone that was found around the site, but most of the small bit that has been completed looks pretty new and thus doesn't convey the awe one gets when looking at the imperfections of a 4600 year old pyramid.

We're now off to Ethiopia, which doesn't have very good internet services. Expect the next few updates (if any) to be text only, followed by a picture post once I reach South Africa on April 14th.

Between Then and Now

It's been three and a half months since we left Lembeh... and now we're in Egypt, a short stop before the start of an extended African experience in Ethiopia, Madagascar, South Africa, and elsewhere.

Perhaps one day I'll get around to filling in the gap, but for transitional purposes, here's the brief summary:

Northern Sulawesi: Manado has some of the world's most efficient public transport (really!), but the rest of the province is good value only if you're a single traveller.

Raja Ampat, West Papua: Great fish action, if you're in the right place and don't have your flight to Sorong cancelled.

Saigon/Ho Chi Minh Vietnam: Wow, this place has changed in the past 40 years... Great food and friendly people.

Phnom Penh: You don't need to go to the killing fields to feel shocked about what the US was doing here while I was in school (supporting the Khmer Rouge in the 1980s). The old high school/prison was enough.

Siem Reap/Angkor: A great way to finish a long trip - fantastic cycling through 1000-600 year old ruined temples.

Five Pass tramp (Mt Aspiring NP, New Zealand): Simply the best walk in New Zealand - by a wide margin over Cascade Saddle in 2nd place. The three-year wait for good weather was worth it.

...so let's begin with Cairo before I lose internet connections for a month.