Next update - December 7th

We're going to the remotest part of our trip this morning - to the Raja Empat islands off West Papua - so will certainly not have an internet connection until we return on December 7th.

So next week, expect a flurry of updates on Singapore, Sabah, and the weird creatures of the Lembeh Strait (and other weird things about Northern Sulawesi).

Sampai Nanti!
Jeremy

The Heart of Java – Land of coffee tea

In America, Java is synonomous with a cup of coffee. To historians and most non-Javanese Indonesians, it's synonomous as the location of Indonesia's historical treasure at Borobudur - the world's largest Buddhist monument. After spending five days in Yogyakarta ("Jogja"), the cultural capital of Java, I now find these associations a bit odd for a tea-growing island whose 130 million residents are over 90% Muslim.

But Indonesia has the habit of contradicting conventional wisdom, such as we experienced in Flores, where animist beliefs and catholicism do not contraindicate of each other. Borobudur, which is near Jogja, was built in the 9th century, when Indonesia was still predominantly Buddhist (Hinduism would arrive soon thereafter, followed by Islam about 500 years later). It was likely a pilgramige site for Buddhists, with its stone reliefs and structure representing the path to enlightenment. 1200 years later, it's still serving this same purpose, though for a slightly different kind of pilgramige than its designer(s) planned - tourism.

Not only is it Indonesia's only appearance in books like "1001 things to see before you die", but Borobudur also holds a special place in most Indonesian families. One thing a visitor to and Indonesian house will observe is that any Indonesian family who has been to Borobudur will have a photo displayed of them posing alongside one of the stupas atop Borobudur - sometimes wearing their traditional Muslim clothing. And like kissing the Blarney Stone in Ireland, most domestic tourists to Borobudur will reach into the stupas and try to touch the Buddha statue inside - supposedly this brings good luck if trying to find a husband/wife.

It's hard not to be impressed by Borobudur. It's remarkably well preserved; 1200 years later most of the stone carvings are still clear and easy to decipher once you know the story being told. Although restorations in the 1970s added a bit of mortar to some stones in an effort to keep them in place (perhaps also securing them against theft, which is the cause of many headless buddhas), many of the walkways are still the mortarless construction that was used. And unlike the restored Thai temples around Sukothai that we visited in 2008, nothing about Borobudur was re-carved – buddha statues have been left headless, and missing stones replaced by rectangular blocks. It's a nice line between the extremes of re-creation and preservation.

Our other journey into Indonesia's distant past was a visit to two mountain temples, Candi Ceto and Candi Sukuh, built by the Hindus in the late 15^th century as Islam swept through the plains and those who stuck with Hinduism were pushed further and further up into the hills. Neither temple is well understood by archaeologists, as traditional Hindu forms and stories exist alongside odd carvings that look more like 15^th century porn than religious teachings or representations. I think the most accepted explanation is currently that they were a shrine for a fertility cult. Like Borobudur, these two temples are remarkably well preserved, but unlike Borobudur, we were the only visitors.

The two temples are 7km apart, so led by our guide, we walked through the farms and national forest that lie in between. The Javanese highlands are the vegetable and tea basket of the island. Rice is grown down on the plains. Farmers up here were planting carrots, corn, chilli, cloves, and potatoes, and in the middle was a giant tea plantation. Java now grows a big chunk of Indonesia's tea (though much is still imported from India/Sri Lanka) – coffee appears to be typically grown in Sumatra, Bali, and Sulawesi. The national forest was also interesting; apparently the government came to own some of the land that was unsuitable for farming and wanted to make it a green space quickly. Japan donated a bunch of fast-growing pine trees in the mid-1970s, so now the area is covered in pine forest with the jungle slowly beginning to regrow in the understory.

Central Java is not just about historical cultures – it's also the arts centre of modern Indonesia. Traditional dance, music, puppetry, batik, silver jewellery and many other crafts are all alive and well here in Jogja. The gamelan orchestra features in most of the live entertainment (music, dance and puppetry), with its very distinctive – some may say dischordant – sound eminating from the brass xylophone and drum-type instruments. The main type of puppetry in Jogja is “wayang kulit”, which features very intricate characters carved from rigid leather that have moving arms and legs. It's common to watch these puppets from behind a screen (as a shadow puppet). Some of the sampler shows put on for tourists are perhaps a bit too authentic (a traditional wayang kulit performance begins at 9:30pm and ends around 5 am) – with two hours of shadow puppets talking to each other in Javanese. However, the skill of the puppeteer was impressive – besides controlling a puppet, he's also chanting, speaking, and making the special effect noises.

So ends the first phase of our trip – Indonesia only grants 30-day non-extendable entry visas on arrival, so we have to make a “visa run” by leaving for Singapore and Malaysia. We'll be back five days later in Northern Sulawesi.

Photos (from top)

1 – The postcard view of Borobudur's stupas
2 – The east side of Borobudur
3 – A 1200 year old carving at Borobudur, showing the soon-to-be-Buddha cutting off his hair as he leaves behind his life as a prince in order to find enlightenment
4 – Indonesian families trying to touch the buddha statue inside Borobudur's stupas
5 – Candi Sukuh
6 – The traditional way of making batik: hot wax applied to the fabric by hand before the dye
7 – Gamelan orchestra
8 – Making the puppets for a wayang kulit performance

Out with a Kupang

The “backdoor” exit from Flores by air is Kupang, the largest city in the province of East Nusa Tenggara, on the island of Timor. This island is typically in the news for all the wrong reasons, and is partly responsible for Indonesia's poor image overseas. So it's best to begin with the express version of 20^th century Indonesian history.

Indonesia is, of course, the famed spice islands that motivated Columbus and other European explorers to find the most efficient trading route between Eurpoe and Indonesia. The Dutch East Indies company is credited with stiching together such a diverse group of islands into one country, but the Portugese and British also set up colonial posts. It wasn't until the Japanese invaded during WWII that these colonial powers began to head for the exits; in 1948 the Dutch left and the Republic of Indonesia was born (the date later amended to August 17, 1945 by the Dutch upon the 50^th anniversary). Portugal gave control over most of its territories to the new country, but held on to the Portuguese speaking Kabupaten (counties) on the eastern side of Timor.

In 1975, Portugal decided that it didn't want to keep supporting the colony of East Timor, and offered the people the chance to either join Indonesia or become its own country. Popular support was evenly split, and Suharto, the president of Indonesia, decided that he'd speed things along and annex the territory as part of Indonesia. To quell any dissent, he sent the army in. Suddenly, there was a full-scale guerilla war, won by the Indonesians, and East Timor became an Indonesian province (A recent Australian film, “Balibo”, depicts these events).

The strong top-down control that Suharto exerted over Indonesia until 1997 quelled any dissent, and East Timor remained “peaceful” under the eye of the Indonesian army. Oddly enough, it was a run on the Thai currency that triggered Act II. The Asian financial crisis that resulted from the run hammered Jakarta and Suharto's core support (upper/middle class) urged him to head for the exit. With the loss of top-down control (and the granting of more freedom to speak against the government), grievances that had been bottled up began to simmer. East Timor decided to have a democratic vote on whether to remain as part of Indonesia or to go it alone. The vote in 1999 was something like 80% in favour of going it alone, and almost immediately the streets of East Timor were full of private militias running amok – torching villages, pillaging and bringing the world's attention to this desert island once again. Act II was much worse since the internet and live news channels made it more accessible to the world.

Eventually, it surfaced that the Indonesian army was supporting these militias – perhaps they didn't want to see the blood spent 25 years before to have been a waste. More importantly, however, was the need to send a strong message to two other areas of Indonesia where secessionary violence was brewing post-Suharto – Irian Jaya (renamed Papua) in the far east and Aceh in the far west. Timor holds little of economic value to the country, but it was setting a dangerous precedent for the other two, which are resource-rich (Aceh has oil and Papua has gold and other natural resources). The UN (mainly Australian troops) came in to clean up the mess and allow the country of East Timor (officially Timor Leste) to be born.

Some West Timorese Indonesians resented the UN involvement and killed three troops based in West Timor in 1999. Our guidebooks told us to expect some resentment from the locals and a city that had seen better days (Kupang used to be the first stop for Aussies travelling to surf in Indonesia).

To our pleasurable surprise, Kupang was exactly the opposite – a reasonably clean city with extraordinarily friendly people. Great beaches are nearby and easy to get to by bemo (public transport is alive and well here). Rather than hawking goods or directing us to high-priced tourist shops, everyone smiled at us saying “hello mister!” and wanted to help us (one even got off a bemo to help us find the one headed in our direction). We couldn't even walk the 1km between the airport bemo stop and the airport – everyone would stop and block traffic to offer us a free ride to the terminal.

Foreign tourists are an extreme rarity here – we only met two French travellers during our entire 2-day stay. As a result, the night market on Jalan Garuda felt a bit more authentic and around 7pm was buzzing with smiling locals eating some of the best food we've had in Indonesia. In addition, the inflation that has hammered the tourist haunts of Java, Bali, and Lombok hasn't found its way to Kupang – making it so extraordinarily cheap that we didn't even bother to bargain. The lack of travellers also meant that all eyes were on us, especially local school children who wanted to take their picture with us and practice their English.

West Timor is definitely on our list of places to revisit – 2 half-days just wasn't enough. For the time being, the Indonesians are managing their separatist issues by extending greater autonomy to the provinces. They've learned their lesson from the 1999 disaster so all is peaceful in West Timor – the tourists will be back soon.

Pictures:

Top – A food stall on Jalan Garuda, Kupang, cooking up a healthy portion of nasi goreng (fried rice).

Bottom – Friendly English language students at the Jalan Garuda night market, Kupang.

Colourful Cultures and Colourful Lakes – Flores Part 2

It took less than an hour before the first sound of vomit. The winding road had captured its one and only victim, the Dutch girl travelling with us, early. The road surface here in Flores is very good, better than a lot of roads you'll find in NZ or the US, but it's constantly switchbacking up and down hills or contouring around the deep valleys cut into the hillsides. Indonesian drivers tend to drive to the condition of the road – if it's potholed, the car creeps along, gently dipping up and down, but if it's nicely sealed, the driver must find it especially important to reach the next corner as fast as possible. Hence the reputation of the “Trans-Flores highway” as a testing ground for those with motion sickness.

The attraction of inland Flores is the traditional culture that still thrives,despite the island having been been overrun with religious missionaries. Islam, Christianity (mainly catholicism), and traditional animist beliefs intertwine here rather peacefully – it's not uncommon to see the town masjid (mosque) a few doors down from the katedral, or a church with a sacrifical stone for killing animals during ceremonies outside. On the outskirts of Bajawa, 8 hours (but only 250km) from Labuan Bajo, we had the fortune of meeting Silvester, a very knowledgeable guide who spoke decent English and took us on the back of his motorbike to visit a few of the nearby villages.

Bajawa is the traditional heartland of the Ngada people, whse cultural practices remain despite the encroachment of Europeans, religion, and tourism. The most traditional villages – we visited Langa and Luas (not totally sure about the name of the latter) – feature grass and timber huts around a central courtyard. The courtyard contains ceremonial entities that represent the ancestors of each family in the village – one umbrella-like structure (Ngadhu) that represents the male ancestor is paired with a minature house-like structure (Bhaga) that represents the female ancestor. Erecting one of these is quite a task; although the materials are cheap, they must come from certain areas, in certain forms (e.g. the tree for the Ngadhu pole must be “cut down” by removing all the roots), and have many rituals performed for them. Pigs and buffaloes must be slaughtered, the meat providing a feast for the whole village and the skulls hung up for all to see.

Despite these beliefs, all of these villagers are also devoutely catholic, with the church occupying part of the space around the courtyard. While we were visiting Langa, a dance party was in full swing as part of a First Communion celebration.

Although these super-traditional villages are not very common, most villages around Bajawa were built of more modern materials (concrete, mudbrick and steel), but they still had Ngadhus and Bhagas made of the traditional materials. Another custom that remains in modern Ngada peoples is the provision of different houses for males and females (identified by a figure on the top of the house – a minature bhaga for women and a scarecrow-type person for the men). Silvester also mentioned that women hold the “power” in regards to family connectons to the village clan families; if an outsider married a village girl, then he would come to live in the village. But if his wife died, he would be swiftly booted out. The reverse holds true if an outsider marries a man from the village – he must leave and live with the woman in her town.

Although there are other things to do in central Flores, such as heading north from Bajawa to reach the tujuhbelas (17) islands (there are actually 24 islands, but Indonesia's independence day is on the 17^th of August, so 7 islands don't count) for some beach time, we headed east to the village of Moni. This “village” is more like a collection of restaurants and hotels on the main highway. It's the base for visitors wishing to see Flores' three coloured volcanic lakes on Kelimutu.

Near the summit of Kelimutu (Mt. Mutu in the local language) are three deep crater lakes. They're famous because they change colour every now and then as the acidic waters (pH varies from 0.5 to 3.0) eat away new minerals in the crater. Most guidebooks will tell you that the lakes are three different colours: turquoise, red and black, however, recently the red lake has turned to an an identical turquoise as the turquoise lake. Since these two lakes are only seperated by a small ridge, it was a bit disappointing not to have them be different colours (and living in NZ, we're spoiled by turquoise-coloured lakes; these were similar to Pukaki and Tekapo). The black lake was quite interesting, as we had never seen a lake so black (it almost looked like someone had dumped ink into it) and all the other tourists on the summit with us were fascinated by a turquoise-coloured lake that we had the black one (which sits away from the other two) to ourselves.

But the way that most tourists visit Kelimutu makes the colours only half of the excitement. Since Indonesia is so near the equator, the sun drives predictable weather patterns in the mountains. At night, the mountains are usually clear with no cloud, but once the sun comes up and begins to heat up the land and create convective air movement, mist begins to form and the afternoon usually brings violent rain squalls. So to get any sort of a view, one has to be on the summit at sunrise. For most mountains here, that means a climb beginning somewhere between midnight and 2 in the morning. But Kelimutu has a paved road most of the way to the top, so at 4am, we awoke to the knock of our motorcycle drivers, and 30 minutes of windy roads in the dark on the back of the motorcycle, we began the short 20 minute walk up to the summit for sunrise.

That's about all that Moni has to offer – most people walk all the way down from Kelimutu, via traditional villages (not as interesting as the ones in Bajawa, though the people are very friendly) and the local waterfall (though we missed a turn somewhere and saw more villages than we had planned). Next up is Kupang, West Timor, a brief stop on the way back to Bali.

Pictures (from top)

1 – Water Buffalo in the mud, inland Flores

2 – Bajawa

3 – Luas village, Gunung Iniere volcano in the background

4 – Sunrise over the turquoise lakes, Kelimutu

5 – Moonset over the black lake, Kelimutu

The Flores above and below sea level

Getting on the bus in Mataram/Sweta, Lombok's sprawling city, it quickly becomes obvious that for most western travellers, Indonesia ends in Lombok. We're suddenly the centre of attention, drawing students interested in trying out their English, hawkers trying to sell us the only book they have in English (a Bahasa Indonesia/English dictionary), and constant smiling domestic tourists asking “darimana?” (where do you come from?) and “kemana?” (where are you going?). As we were to find out, these latter two questions seem to be almost the cultural equivalent of saying “how are you?”, or else Indonesians are really interested in tracing our journey.

Suddenly, the travellers with us aren't backpackers trying to find the best beach or cheapest accommodation, but rather students or soldiers heading home to their villages, as well as Indonesians seeing a bit more of their country. Goodbye tourist trail, hello Indonesia (and Holland, but more on that later). We didn't have to wait long for our first rather amusing “only in Indonesia” moment. On the ferry between Lombok and Sumbawa, the night trans-Sumbawa buses all drive on to the ferry together (there's about 6 to 8 coaches), and all the passengers make their way to the open-air passenger deck. So far so normal, but as soon as the ferry pulls away, suddenly two chaps at the front open up a nearby cabinet full of pirated DVDs and start an auction-style infomercial with all sorts of random stuff, from belts to toys to sandals to food.

The classic moment though was when the auctioneer started selling some sort of facemask. His assistant modelled it, and not having a clue what was being said, it really looked like the assistant was ready to rob the ferry. Next on the block was a child's toy bubble gun, and leaving the facemask on, the assistant showed us how the bubble gun worked.

Hundreds of kemanas and darimanas later, two buses across Sumbawa (including a stop in Sumbawa Besar for dinner), and a 7-hr ferry ride across to Flores, we finally arrived in Labuan Bajo. By the end, it was becoming so rare to see other travellers of European descent that meeting someone was an event itself. However, Labuan Bajo itself is more of a tourist spot (most fly in from Bali on a daily flight that seems to be always booked out a week in advance or take those tourist boats that skip Sumbawa). Despite the fact that it's a tiny fishing village, the National Park around Rinca and Komodo island to the west is worth the gruelling trip.

Diving was supurb, we hit the three “must-do” sites of Karang Makassar (often called Manta Point), Castle Rock and Batu Bolong (Hole in the Rock). At Karang Makassar we were lucky to experience a 4 to 5 metre wide manta ray glide past and even luckier to see our first octopus of the trip! Octopi are Becca's favourite sea creature, hence the name of the blog. Castle Rock was an underwater pinnacle covered in fish, we sat on the bottom while giant trevallies chased groups of fusiliers. Tunas and 1.5m long barracudas glided past as well. Batu bolong was also covered in fish, but was surprisingly different, with less big fish and more neon-coloured corals.

On land, we hired a rickety boat for a day and took off to Rinca island (pronounced “rincha”). Almost immediately, we came across a sleeping Komodo dragon, the biggest of all lizards. The dragons we saw on a 1 hr walk around were mostly 3 to 4 metres long (and sleeping). Komodo dragons have a lifestyle of eating every 2 to 3 weeks, but when they eat, they eat big stuff. Common food for them are wild deer, pigs, monkeys and water buffalo that roam the island – guides also like to point out that they've killed the odd human as well. Small animals, like monkeys, are killed immediately, but big animals, like the buffaloes, are killed after a single dragon bite with bacteria-laden saliva kills the buffalo through infection.

Back in Labuan Bajo, it was time to move on, and our plans to head inland for a few days and then fly back to Bali from the eastern town of Maumere was seemingly quashed by the bizarre (and still inexpliciable) occurance of all flights being “full” at least a week in advance. Luckily, in Indonesia, there is a bizarre rule of thumb that seemingly hopeless situations seem to work out. And it's not a case of finding the right person to slip 100,000 rupiah, but rather a case of waiting around or finding the right person to ask.

One problem was the flight, the other was the high cost of transport across Flores with its notoriously winding motion-sickness inducing road (the 300 km between Labuan Bajo and Ende takes approximately 10 to 14 hours to drive despite having a good surface). So the “cost” appeared to us as a trade-off between hours of vomiting in a public bus or a wallet-sucking 1 million rupiah (approx US$110) per day to hire a private car with driver. We started down the latter path, by trying to find other travellers to share the cost, but failed in that regard, though we did get some good contacts for drivers that spoke good English. One of these was Stefan, who came to visit us and demanded too much to drive us to Bajawa (8 hours away), Bargaining was not successful, so we began to consider other options.

An hour later that Indonesian rule of thumb kicked in, and Stefan rang to tell us that we could get a ride with his friend who was heading back to Maumere and would drive us and another two people that he had found to Bajawa. So it was back to plan A. Meanwhile, the flight situation appeared to be working out, as a few phone calls resulted in availability on a flight between Ende and Kupang (West Timor) around the time we wanted to leave Flores. Of course, the drama doesn't stop until the last minute – the airline office had lost power so it could not issue our tickets to Kupang – we had to stop at their office in Ruteng (halfway between Labuan Bajo and Bajawa) by 2pm (and hope they had power there). Again, everything works out, and we made it to Ruteng with plenty of time to spare.

As you might expect from the unpleasant means of going inland, heading east from Labuan Bajo means ditching the faint tourist trail once again. Besides kemana and darimana, were were often asked whether we were Dutch. Perhaps because the Dutch East Indies company was responsible for stiching together the archipelago as a single country, the Dutch have a stronger inclination to travel off the Bali-Lombok tourist trail. Indeed, the only couple we saw on the trans-Sumbawa journey was Dutch, and the other couple that Stefan found to share the car with us was also Dutch. For such a small country, the Netherlands is certainly overrepresented in Flores.

Pictures: Top - sunset over Labuan Bajo harbour. Middle - Trumpetfish in the fan coral at Crystal Rock (the fourth dive site we went to). Bottom - Female Komodo Dragon guarding her nest.

On to the Southeast Archipelago (Nusantara “Nusa” Tenggara)

From Bali it's easy to reach the neighbouring island of Lombok. A 4-hour slow ferry, or a 2-hour fast catamaran brings you to what seems to be another country thanks to the influence of Islam. However, Lombok is still on the tourist circuit, and our first destination, Gili Trawangan, almost seems like it could be a beach resort anywhere – except for the 4:20am wake-up call of the muezzin and the cidomos (horse-drawn carts) that, along with bicycles, provide the only transport on the island.

Trawangan is known as the “party island” amongst the three islands off Lombok that tourists know as “The Gilis” (or often the Gili islands, except that Gili means “island” in the local language, so this is a bit of a faux-pas). Meno, in the middle, is the “laid-back” island, while Air is the resorty island. In reality, this just means that Trawangan has a few bars that cater to those looking for a party, Meno has nothing except a few guesthouses, and Air is somewhat in the middle. We came here looking for a few days on the beach and a few days under the water testing out our new dive gear.

It was also a good time to test out America's image in a Muslim country. Becca and I discussed being covert New Zealanders for the Muslim islands that we visit (Indonesia is the biggest Muslim country in the world). However this is a bit difficult, as each hotel requires you to fill out your passport details after checking in. Thankfully, it's 2009, not 2008, and the reaction we get when somone learns we're from the USA is quite surprising: “Ooooooobammmahh!!!” There are very few Americans here (Europeans are here in droves – even Aussies are rare outside Bali), so we've been amazed at how Muslim Indonesians smile and want to tell us how good of a person our president is.

Four beach days later, we left Trawangan as certified “Advanced Open Water” divers and began to slowly find the path less travelled (at least for tourists not from France or the Netherlands). For most travellers, the Gilis are all that they experience of Lombok as direct boats to Bali mean you don't need to set foot on the mainland. Needing some more beach time – some waves perhaps, as the Gilis are like swimming pools (with some impressive marine life, though) – we booked a boat/bus ticket to Kuta beach in Lombok.

Expecting a great beach with waves and other sun-loving tourists, we jumped off the minivan in a hot, filthy town that needs some serious help if it is to attract tourists. The provincial government is building a flash new international airport nearby in a bid to steal some tourists from the more famous Kuta in Bali, but it may soon sit idle if Kuta-Lombok can't find a way to rid itself of all the rubbish littered everywhere, packs of stray dogs, begging children that follow you all the way to the beach and poor access to the better beaches out of town (the waves off the beach in Kuta-Lombok are about 1km out to sea). Despite these drawbacks, the coastal scenery is quite dramatic and nearby surfing waves attract hard-core surfers from all over the world. But we wern't experienced enough at driving motorbikes (or being able to fix them when they break) to endure the potholed roads that lead to these better beaches, so we left Kuta the next day for a transport marathon across the whole of Nusa Tenggara Barat province to Labuanbajo in Flores.

Nusa Tenggara, the collection of islands starting in Lombok and continuing southeast to Timor is one of Indonesia's poorest areas. Travel thorough here is slow and sometimes very interesting (buses in Flores regulary feature goats, chickens, pigs, and other animals riding on the roof). East of Lombok, the next island is Sumbawa, an island that to most travellers is a bit more of an inconvenience than a destination. Many companies in Lombok offer multi-day “cruises” that sail around Sumbawa and on to Flores, but these can be rather expensive, so we went with plan B – an overnight bus and ferry adventure that takes just over 28 hours to reach Labuanbajo from Kuta-Lombok.

Pictures: Top is the beach on Gili Trawangan's north side, looking towards Gili Meno in the background. Bottom is the sunrise over Gunung Rinjani (on mainland Lombok).

More coming soon!

Yes, it's November and we're well past Bali. Lombok and the rest of Nusa Tenggara has been wonderful, and as expected, very different from Bali. It's also very much a developing part of the world - internet has been just about non-existant (or mind-numbingly slow, like this connection) since leaving Bali, so look for a bunch of new posts (and a few photos!) about Lombok, Flores and West Timor once we get back to Bali tomorrow.

-Jeremy